FIRST ~

Ring of Kerry loops around the Iveagh Peninsula (blue circle).

Click map for a better read.

Killarney National Park 011105

At Killarney we take a left turn to start the Ring of Kerry route, and the first stop is Killarney National Park, a top-notch nature park with forests, hills, lakes and streams. In autumn it is also a very chilly place.

The blue sign says "Department of Arts, Heritage, Gaeltacht & the Islands". Gaeltacht? That refers to Irish-speaking regions. So the Irish-spouting blokes and the Islands are lumped together with Arts and Heritage. Hmmmm...

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Autumn hues in Killarney National Park.

Keep Left 011105

You know straight away this place is popular with outsiders when they tell you to drive the right way in various languages! Which puts me on alert too, in case of the odd wayward foreigners barreling down my lane.

Ladies View 011105

The scenic drive through the forest lasts a few kilometres before the narrow winding road begins to go uphill. We are doing the Ring of Kerry loop in the clockwise direction. For some reason tour coaches are required to do the route anti-clockwise.

Soon the trees give way to rocks and bushes, and we arrive at Ladies View, a look-out giving spendid views of the famous Killarney Lakes, and the expansive valley below.

There's a Leprechaun's Crossing nearby, or so the sign-post says. Leprechauns must have loved a cold desolate place like this.

Colourful Sneem 011105

We cross Moll's Gap, along a narrow winding road flanked by spectacular rocky mountains and deep valleys. This is truly sheep country. Sheep everywhere looking like cotton balls stuck to the sides of hills and valleys.

After the long drive, a pleasant surprise awaits us - the town of Sneem.

Maybe they need the vibrant colours to offset the dullness of grey cold winter days?

Skirting The Atlantic 011105

After Sneem, still in sheep country, we hit the Atlantic Ocean, to our left, blasting the coast with non-stop cold wind ...

... while on the right, the ever-present radiant little houses pinned to the rocky hill-slopes full of sheep.

The Atlantic 011105

From the road, the view towards the Atlantic coast is quite impressive. But the cold wind was so strong that we can hardly stand still! It's not easy operating the camera with shaking hands, thanks to the gale and its chill factor!

Grazing lands all the way to the edge.

An inn (cum pub) in the middle of nowhere? That's typically Irish! :-)

Menacing-looking weather from the fretful Atlantic. The cold, sometimes gale-force, winds chill the bones. I often wonder how people can eke a living in a tough place like this.

Waterville 011105

Our hard-working Zafira taking a breather at Waterville, a major town along the Ring of Kerry. The main road faces the Atlantic. We are now at the extreme southwestern corner of Ireland.

Waterville is our last stop for the day. The sun sets very soon and we need to get some food to break the day's fast. Then we complete the Ring of Kerry route and head back to Dublin, 450km away, driving non-stop right across the middle of Ireland.

Atlantic beachfront, looking north.

The southern view, no kiddin'. This is one unfriendly beach, if you ever see one.

Waterville Views 011105

Not a bad-looking town at all, considering how remote the place is. And not to mention being buffeted by cold blustery wind all year round.

Nasty weather looks like heading our way. This place sort of closes the loop - I've been to the Atlantic beach on Coney Island, New York, and now I'm on a beach on the other side of The Pond.

Charlie Chaplin 011105

Even Mr Charlie Chaplin used to hang around here.

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Shore Angling 011105

And of course, for the ever-hardy fishermen, errrr... I mean anglers.

This is the map of the Iveagh Peninsula, and the Ring of Kerry is the checkered line snaking around the coastline. Shore angling along the Ring of Kerry is a must for serious fishos.

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FINAL ~ Departing the Ring of Kerry 011105

Leaving Waterville we do a quick stop at this smallish service station to stock up on provisions in preparation for the long drive back to Dublin, 400+ km away ...

... and after getting our bearings, we are soon on our way.



We break fast on a windy hill near a place called the Kells, as the weather turns very wet and misty. Leaving County Kerry we make our way back to Dublin on a rainy night, with temperatures hovering just above freezing point.

Fantastic route, this Ring of Kerry is, but not a single Leprechaun in sight. Just sheep, sheep, sheep!