Four and half hours on, I am in Gyeongju. The 'Saemaeul' train from Seoul is right on the dot.
[There are 3 types of passenger train service in Korea. Top of the line is the bullet train KTX (service for Seoul-Busan, Seoul-Mokpo/Gwangju, started just a year ago), next the super-express 'Saemaeul', followed by the express service "Mugunghwa". The slowest train is the 'Tong-il'.]
First thing's first - a toilet visit. Luckily I'm a foreigner - they reserved one for me already. :-)
It is sweltering hot in Gyeongju as I exit the train station. Cab drivers try to offer services, but I dash off to the tourist information kiosk and am soon walking to my US$50/night hotel - a 40min stroll in the hot sun, with a pack on my back.